MADE IT TO EUROPE!

Currently in Istanbul, having crossed the Bosphorous to the European side of the city. Enjoyed a first glass of bubbly in a very long time to celebrate twofold - having made it to Europe and the end of a short but blissful (fake) marriage.

From here will cross into Greece later today and then spend as much as possible of six days relaxing on Greek beaches before we get onto a ferry bound for Italy on the 19th. Then from there France beckons and we're planning to cross the Channel on the 29th August.

We hope you have enjoyed our blog and unless you read otherwise we have made it home safely - or, quite possibly, turned around to do it all again...

Fergus & Anna xxx

Kapadokya, Turkey

Our third and last rock hewn World Heritage Site.

Syria

A short but thoroughly enjoyable stay in this 'Axis of Evil' state. Were only going to stay for a night in Damascus. Then bumped into Karel and Hildy, whom we had first met in Malawi in February. They had come through the same, dry route as us, so we headed to the Christian quarter in the Old Town to find a bar. Looking forward to catching up with you again in Blackheath!

Jordan - a breath of fresh air

Arriving in Paradise, coming from Saudi. No obligatory black bhurkas, ok to wear a bikini on the beach and, most importantly, WINE and BEER to be found (albeit with a little bit of hunting). Dived in Aqaba, visited Petra and floated in the Dead Sea.

Our two days in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia
With 72 hour visas, it was only ever going to be a short visit. As women aren't allowed to travel in cars (nevermind driving) with men who aren't their husbands, fathers or brothers, we had prepared a very credible marriage certificate in an internet cafe in Nairobi and bought two quid rings in Ethiopia. With Saudi embassy and customs officials fooled, we crossed into Jordan 48 hours later. No photos taken as we did not want any lasting memories of this country - the ninja outfit Anna had to wear was dumped at the border. The only redeeming factor was that it cost USD 5 for a full tank of diesel.

Sudan - our last stop in Africa

Stiff competition, but the Sudanese must be the friendliest people in Africa! Not much to see (other than desert and a few pyramids); the only reason we stayed for a whole week was to sort visas for Saudi Arabia and Jordan. From Suakin - which must be one of the hottest places in Africa! - we took an overnight ferry (the former P&O 'Pride of Hampshire') to Jeddah in Saudi Arabia.

10 days in Ethiopia

The rock hewn churches of Lalibela (Ethiopia's very own Jerusalem...!) was a highlight. Yes, it is a genuine priest - who thinks tourists are overcharged and therefore insists to pose for photos. And, who would have thought, there are beaches in Ethiopia!

The dusty road to Ethiopia

By all accounts, the direct road between Nairobi and the Ethiopian border is one of the worst in Africa. Having heard too many nightmare stories of broken suspension and tyres ripped open by volcanic rocks, we took local advice and went the 150 kilometre longer north eastern route, which amazingly takes a day less as it is on sand rather than boulders. Strangely, very few other travellers seem to opt for, or even know about, this way. It definitely felt like we were off the beaten track with only nomadic, camel riding herdsmen for company. With very early starts, coffee at sunrise was an absolute necessity.

Power Shower

Very much needed following a gruelling 6 hour bike ride around the Crater Lakes near Fort Portal, Uganda.

Uganda

Entering the south of the country from Rwanda mid-June, camping at Lake Bunyoni, and crossing the Equator.

The missing link...?

Mountain Gorillas, Parc de Volcans, Rwanda

One of THE highlights of the trip; an absolutely amazing experience! We were lucky enough to get to visit the Susa group, which with 41 members is the biggest one in Rwanda (one of the females, Poppy, was named by Diane Fossey). After about 2 1/2 hours of trekking at over 3000 meters above sea level, we found ourselves in the middle of the group. Saw around 30 gorillas, among them four silverbacks and several little ones, and came so close that we could have touched a couple of them.

Lake Natron and Oldoinyo Lengai

A sulphur lake in northern Tanzania; not many people around apart from the local Masai cattle hearders. The Oldoinyo Lengai volcano, not far from the lake, is the home of the Masai god.

Safari

Ulla and Per (Anna's mum and dad) came out to Tanzania for a week's safari with us. We had an awsome time with them in Lake Manyara, Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater (THANK YOU again!). Saw an incredible amount of wildlife - if you're thinking of going on a safari, then the Serengti is the place to go.

Serengeti - Animals

Lions, lions and more lions... We saw a total of 50 in five days!

Serengeti - Animals

We also managed to catch sight of the beginnings of the wildebeast migration.

Serengeti - Sunrise and Sunset

Ngorongoro Crater

Kilimanjaro
We didn't climb it. Thought long and hard about it but opted for an afteroon on the lower slopes visiting one of its waterfalls. At 2000 dollars it would have been by far the most expensive week of the trip, though we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the peak as left Moshi for Arusha.

The Masai Steppe

We spent a day hiking in the Ushambara Mountains near Lushoto. Fantastic views over the Tanzanian Masai Steppe.

Peponi, Tanzania

We planned to stay here for 3 nights, but ended up staying for 11! What can we say - we do like a nice beach...

Zanzibar in May

The week we spent in Nungwe and Stonetown seems a long time ago now.

Currently...
We're in Nungwe on Zanzibar, having a lovely time! More photos of white sand and turquoise water to follow shortly...!

Last stop in Zambia

The Hot Springs at Shiwa Ng'andu (Africa House); a welcome end to a six-hour walk - missed the turning right at "the big tree", which added an extra 10 kilometres...

North Luangwa, Zambia

Due to washed out roads and bridges not yet in place, the 200 kilometre trip (as the crow flies) from South to North parks, becomes a 1500 kilometre, two-day trip via Lusaka. Absolutely worth every extra kilometre as it was definitely one of the highlights of the trip! We spent four days with Ed, Claire and little Tabitha in their home in the heart of the Rhino Sanctuary at North Luangwa National Park - picknicks, rhino tracking and sundowners...